2018-2020 Mustang GT Flowmaster Outlaw Cat-Back Exhaust w/ Black Tips Sound Clip & Review

Hey, guys. Adam here with americanmuscle.com, today we’re
taking a closer look at, installing and listening to the Flowmaster Outlaw Cat-Back Exhaust
with Black Carbon Fiber Tips available for all 2018 and newer Mustang GTs without active
exhaust. Like you heard from our sound clips a minute
ago, this guy is gonna get five out of five on our loudness meter. It’s exactly what we expect from a Flowmaster
Outlaw. They’re known to be extremely loud systems
in the category. The Outlaw is essentially a straight pipe,
so that’s really gonna contribute to the sound you just heard. It’s loud, it’s raspy, and it can be ear piercing
at wide-open throttle. If you’re looking for all-out volume, this
is a great way to go. It’s got a resonator delete Flowmaster Scavenger
X-pipe which is gonna help boost airflow efficiency. It’s gonna give you a small bump in power
and it’s gonna give you a louder raspier tone than a resonator or even an H-pipe. The rest of the kit here is 409 stainless
steel, middle of the road quality materials, aluminized 409 and then 304 being top quality. So, it is gonna be more corrosion and rust-resistant
than aluminized, they maybe not so much as 304. And that’s gonna be reflected in the price
tag. A lot of the 304s is coming around 1,600 bucks,
this guy’s coming in around 1,200 bucks. So, it’s great for the guys looking to save
on a full cat-back system. The mufflers back to the tips are powder coated
in black to even boost its durability there. Now, the rest of the system also is 3-inch
mandrel bend tubing, 3 inches larger in diameter, and it’s also mandrel bent to help reduce
any kinks and airflow restrictions. The tips here are black carbon fiber. Now, not everybody likes carbon fiber. So, if you’re not really interested in that
there’s a ton of other color options in the category available for you. Carbon fiber is very unique looking, I think
it blends in really well with this we’re valance, I actually really like it against our orange
Fury ’19 here as well. Now, these sleeves are essentially bolted
to the actual materials here. The bolts are not very obvious, they’re really
subtle, which is not something you can say for some of the other brands in the category. So, I do like that. It’s got double-walled fitment around the
edges here so it’s nice and thick, really aggressive looking. Personally, I think it looks pretty good. The tips are angled a little bit. Not everybody would like that, not all the
systems are like that as well. So, something to keep in mind, I personally
think it looks pretty aggressive. The install is gonna get three out of three
wrenches on our difficulty meter, it does require cutting and some specialty tools. Now, the cutting is fairly simple, I’m gonna
walk you through that process. Essentially we’re gonna unbolt the entire
factory cat-back in one piece and then just cut off the remaining pipe right behind the
factory catalytic converters, so it is reusing those factory cats. Now, that I’m gonna use a Sawzall, I’m also
going to use a die grinder just to clean up the cuts and then we’ll bolt up the new system
right from there. I’m gonna walk you through a whole process,
it’ll take you about three hours from start to finish, let’s get started. Tools used in this install include an impact
gun, 3/8 ratchet, an extension, short and deep 13-millimeter sockets, 15-millimeter
deep socket, tape measure, sharpie, a die grinder or something similar to clean up or
deburr the exhaust cuts, Sawzall with a thin curved metal blade, WD-40 or something similar
and a mallet. All right, guys once you have your Mustang
up in the air and supported properly whether it be on jack stands or on a lift like we
have here, you wanna grab an impact gun or a ratchet and a 15-millimeter deep socket
and we’re going to loosen up the two band clamps holding on your factory cat-back to
the catalytic converter pipes. Now, you’ll see that right in front of the
factory resonator, there’s two nuts here and two nuts there, you don’t have to completely
remove them, just get them nice and loose. All right. The next step we’re gonna move back toward
the rear of our vehicle right under the rear subframe. Now, if you look at your rear sway bar straight
past them are two hangers where your exhaust is hooked on and bolted to that subframe using
two 13-millimeter bolts. From here instead of trying to slide our hangers
out of the isolators, I’m actually just gonna completely unbolt the isolators to make life
a lot easier. So, grab an extension and a 13-millimeter
deep socket and what I like to do is go straight over the sway bar and remove those two bolts. All right. Now what I’d like to do after the bolts are
removed is we have to unclip the isolator from the frame, they’re still hooked in there. So, what you’re basically gonna do is lift
up on them so they disconnect and rotate them down and out of the way. All right. Our next step here is to get our entire factory
cat-back off of the vehicle. We’re gonna start up here with our resonator
right in front of those, I’m gonna tap out the factory band clamps, I got my buddy Stan
helping me get this thing down. If you’re working on the ground, you may be
able to do it by yourself, but if you’re in the air, you might want a helping hand. All right. So, now we should slide them out of the hangers
at the tips and they should come free. Good. So, we got your factory exhaust off of our
’19 GT and we have it on the ground next door for Flowmaster Outlaw. Let’s talk about some similarities and differences
between the two kits starting at the front of the vehicle. Now, the factory system has this resonator
mid-pipe, your Flowmaster Outlaw is a resonator delete. It also has the Scavenger X-pipe from Flowmaster
which is gonna help promote a better airflow, it’s gonna help promote more air coming in
and overall that’s gonna translate to a better power gain. Now, as you can see, it is laid out a little
bit differently than your factory exhaust here, it splits out a lot wider than the factory. That’s because we do have to cut those excess
pipes right under the factory catalytic converters, which we’ll get to in just a minute. Do note that the entire system here is 409
stainless steel, so it’s the middle of the road when it comes to quality. There’s the aluminized, 409 and then the more
expensive 304 stainless. 409 is gonna be a little bit more corrosion
and rust-resistant than aluminized steel, so it is a good way to keep costs down while
still getting a better quality construction. If you’re located in wintry weather areas,
like I said earlier, seeing a lot of road salt, things like that, 409 is gonna hold
up a little bit longer than aluminized, maybe not as long as 304, something to keep in mind. The system here is a 3-inch mandrel bent tubing. It’s a little bit larger in diameter than
the factory which is about 2.75 inches. So, you’re getting a lot more volume of airflow
moving through too which can help with power. Moving on, you can see the rest of the kit
here it looks very similar. The bigger difference here comes in at the
mufflers. Your factory mufflers are pretty big, lots
of baffling, keeps drone down, but it’s also minimizing a lot of that sound. If you’re looking for sound, the Flowmaster
Outlaw is essentially a straight pipe. It has these very, very small Bullitt-style
mufflers, which has very little to no baffling on the inside, making it that straight-through
technology, which is essentially just gonna make all-out noise and that’s what we heard
from our sound clip too. Now, because of that, and the fact that there
is no resonator, the essential straight pipe design here is going to produce some drone
inside the cabin. That’s just something you can expect with
what is essentially the straight pipe. So, we know that the factory muffler is giant
In comparison, it’s got a lot of baffling on the inside to help keep drone down while
also making sure that it is aggressive but it does affect volume. If you’re looking for all-out volume, I can’t
think of anything more raspy, and obnoxious, and loud, and aggressive and in your face
than a straight through pipe design which is essentially what you’re getting with the
Flowmaster Outlaw. The baffling here on the inside of these Bullitt-style
mufflers are virtually non-existent, there’s very little to no battling in there which
is gonna help produce a lot of volume and a little bit more rasp than you get with some
of the other options. As a result of essentially a straight pipe
you are gonna get some drone inside the cabin but if you’re looking for all-out noise, and
that’s what you want, you definitely get that here. The black powder coating as you can see is
only on the muffler and right next to the tips there. The powder coating is gonna beef up the corrosion
and rust resistance at this section. A hole in your muffler or rust in your muffler
can drastically affect the sound of an exhaust. So, having those a little bit more protected
than the rest of the system does make a little sense, which is something that you’ll see
here in the Flowmaster kit. The black powder coating is gonna hold up
over time and it’s gonna hold up with the exhaust heat as well. Exiting out the rear it is essentially a black
carbon fiber tip which has a nice sleeve bolted to the bare exhaust material. It’s about 4 inches in diameter as opposed
to your factory 3-inch. It’s not slash-cut as deep as the factory
exhaust, it’s a little bit more evened out, but it does have a slight angle to it. It’s a lot thicker and more aggressive-looking
and it has that slightly exotic feel to it with the carbon fiber finish. And finally, the Flowmaster name there in
a grayish what looks more like a frosted color. Now, there is a couple of things we need to
do in preparation for install, we are gonna have to swap over the factory hanger isolator
as you see here. We’ll put them on our new hangers on the Flowmaster
kit. So, what do you say we get started? Now, when it comes to swapping over these
hanger isolators, I do find it easier to use PB B’laster and just lubricate the inside
there because it can get a little tough to get off. If we just hit both sides here and inside
to make life a little easier for us. I’m gonna work this guy around, as you can
see, slides right off. Now, swapping these over to the Flowmaster
kit you’ll notice the first thing is that the hangers are facing the opposite direction. That’s okay, that’s how the Flowmaster kit
is built. What matters is the way that the hanger isolator
is facing. Take note of this tab at the top, make sure
that is facing the front of the vehicle. So, opposite side of the tips. Slide that on, just rotate it down and out
of the way, same thing on the other guy. Take the tab, face it the opposite direction
of the hangers and how we can move on. All right, with the factory cat-back out of
the way the next step here is to measure in preparation for our cut. Now, we do have to cut off these extension
pipes right behind the factory catalytic converters. This system does reuse the factory cats, so
we’re gonna measure 11-inches from the base weld of the catalytic converter back into
the piping. I’m gonna mark that with a sharpie, I’m gonna
double-check that to make sure it’s good, always measure twice cut once. Once we have that determined we’ll be able
to cut this pipe off. So, we’re really cutting off about this much
but it is necessary. So, grab your measuring tape, measure from
the back here 11 inches, and we’re gonna make our mark. All right. Now, when I say measure from base weld that’s
not this guy here, it’s the base of the cat. So, this weld here at the bottom of it, I’m
gonna measure right from the bottom out 11 inches, grab my sharpie. So, 11 inches is gonna be right about here. That’s gonna be where we make our cut. Now, like I said, measure twice just to make
sure you have it right, 11 inches, and I’m gonna measure on the other side, and then
we can cut. Now, looking at the other side, you’ll notice
that there’s a clamp. This pipe here is clamped on separately, in
theory, we could just remove that and be okay. This marker here is actually 11 inches. So, let me show you that right now. So, I’ measuring from the base, you can see
11 actually ends right where this pipe ends. You can’t just remove that, we do still have
to cut. If we just remove the piping, there’d be about
two to three extra inches of pipe that we don’t want there. So, we do still need to cut right at that
line. So, I’m not even gonna use my sharpie, I’m
just gonna use the end of that pipe as a reference. All right. So, I’m gonna make this cut using a Sawzall
and a thin curved metal blade. You wanna make sure when you’re cutting you
are using a metal blade. I’m also gonna wear safety glasses, of course,
you wanna be safe when you’re doing this, so don’t forget that step. Now, keep in mind, we are very close to the
vehicle’s floorboard. You don’t wanna push this all the way up,
because then our blade is just jabbing right into the floorboard, which obviously is not
something we want, we don’t wanna cause damage to anything else. So, I’m gonna have to pull back a little and
let’s just cut this off. And as you can see, once I cut it, this pipe
is gonna fall. So, just keep that in mind. If you’re working on the ground, just stay
out of your way, make sure that doesn’t fall on you. All right, so we have that off. I’m gonna take a die grinder and I’m gonna
just deburr that to make sure it’s a smooth surface. All right. So, now again, we’re just repeating on the
other side and I’m using the end of this pipe as a reference since that is our 11-inch mark. All right. So, now I’m gonna use my die grinder, my air
tool here, it’s got some fine-toothed sandpaper on it. So, I’m just gonna clean up the edges here,
make sure it’s ready for install. All right, same thing on the other side. All right, now we can start installing. Next up, grab your Scavenger X-pipe from Flowmaster,
put your smaller two and a half inch clamps over the sides. We’re going to insert that into the pipes
that we just cut. All right. So, we do want this to seat back a little
bit more. So, what I’m gonna do is take my mallet, I’m
going to tap right here, get this guy to push right back in. Grab your 15-millimeter socket, rotate the
clamps into position and tighten them down. Now, our next pipe here, I’m going to start
on our driver side, we have one of the larger clamps over the end, the 3-inch clamp, where
it has the slit, that’ll go into the X-pipe. You wanna make sure you’re picking the pipe
here that has a sharper bend and a shorter ending. There’s one with a longer side, that’s gonna
be your passenger. I’m gonna slide this kind of position. All right, now I’m gonna tighten up this clamp,
get it nice and snug. Now, when I do this, I wanna leave a little
bit of room for adjustment. So, I am just gonna get it snug, not too tight. All right, so now we can still rotate it if
we need to. All right, same thing on the other side. All right. Now, before we move on to installing the tips
and the tailpipes with the muffler, I’m actually gonna unbolt the factory isolator that our
tailpipe tip hanger would hook into. These are two 13-millimeter bolts, one is
facing straight down, one is facing the side. I’m gonna use the impact gonna for the bottom
one. Now, for the side, I’m gonna switch over to
a ratchet and get that other guy off. This will make life a lot easier for installing
our tailpipes. So, I have a 3/8 ratchet and 13-millimeter
short socket to get the side guy off. So, now looking at our passenger side tip,
I’m gonna slide this guy on in the same direction, I’m gonna let it dangle for now, we can install
this whole pipe assembly and then hook this guy back up to the frame. All right, now with the clamp in position,
I’m going to hook the pipes together and then we’re gonna bring this whole assembly up to
hook it into our subframe. All right, so what you’ll see us do is rotate
this hanger up and reconnecting to our subframe. I’ve got that factory 13-millimeter bolt for
this isolator, I’m gonna put that guy in just hand tight for now. We’ll come back and tighten it down once everything’s
hooked up. Now what we’re gonna do is lift the whole
tailpipe assembly up, I’m gonna put the factory 13-millimeter bolt back in. That actually hooks right back in as well,
put the bottom one in, tighten them down, and then our clamp. Now, I’m gonna use my impact gun and 13 deep
socket to tighten down the bottom one and a ratchet for the top one. All right. So, now we’re coming back to this clamp that
connected our tailpipe to the rest of the system. I’m just gonna get a nice and snug, I still
wanna leave room for adjustment. All right. So, now we’re just repeating for the other
side, we’re going to remove this isolator and repeat that process. All right. Now we can install our tailpipe. All right. Now I’m gonna put that factory 13-millimeter
bolt in position on the subframe just hand tight for now. All right. So, now I’m gonna rotate the tip hanger isolator
assembly up into the frame, hang it up and put our bolts through. Back at our tailpipe clamp, we’re just gonna
get it nice and snug. Now we can tighten up the 13-millimeter bolts
holding the hangers to the subframe. All right. So, at this point we have everything installed
and as you can see the tapes do need a little bit of an adjusting. So, what we’re gonna do is go back and tighten
down all of our clamps making sure that it’s aligned as we do so, and then we’ll be good
to go. That’s gonna wrap up my review and install
for the Flowmaster Outlaw Series Cat-Back Exhaust with Black Carbon Fiber Tips available
for the ’18 and newer Mustang GT without active exhaust. You can pick yours up right here at americanmuscle.com.

4 thoughts on “2018-2020 Mustang GT Flowmaster Outlaw Cat-Back Exhaust w/ Black Tips Sound Clip & Review

  1. Shop this Flowmaster Outlaw Cat-Back: https://muscle.am/2r7CPLs

    Subscribe For New Mustang Videos Daily: http://muscle.am/SubscribeAMyt

  2. I love Flowmaster. I had the super 44 series mufflers on my first car 01 Mustang GT, but Roush; and Corsa are absolutely the best right now.

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